To be fair, I should say from the outset that I am a big fan of the Garden Grille in Pawtucket. I have eaten there many, many times and have never been disappointed with my meal. In fact, it is the opposite; each time I visit, the cuisine impresses me more and more. We Rhode Islanders are very fortunate to have this vegetarian restaurant in our culinary repertoire. If you have been staying away from the Garden Grille because the kitchen can’t serve you up a juicy steak, then you are missing out on some really delicious food. Garden Grille’s only flaw, or perhaps the only thorn in my side: slow and hit or miss service. Let’s just say the wait can be lengthy, but the food really is worth the wait.

When my partner and I moved here from Cambridge, MA, we were lost without a local juice bar to hit up for a rejuvenating glass of carrot, beet, and parsley. Fortunately, Rob Yaffe opened up Garden Grille soon after; and he has continuously made aesthetic and culinary improvements. What started out as a juice bar/eatery has developed into a full-blown restaurant serving up inventive cuisine, organic wine and beer, and, of course, freshly made juices.

LUNCH

The lunch menu has many options, from a very good Miso Soup to small plates of Sesame Soba Noodles, Garden Grille Nachos, and Wood Grilled Sweet Potatoes with BBQ sauce, just to name a few. The wood grilled sweet potatoes are so popular I’m surprised they don’t have their own Facebook page. The salads selections are fantastic. My favorites are the Wood Grilled Portobellos over Arugula with roasted red peppers, grilled artichoke stems, shaved parmesan and a champagne vinaigrette and the salad of Asparagus and Wood Grilled Pear with the tried and true combination of walnuts, gorgonzola, and mesclun greens. For sandwiches I recommend the popular Wood Grilled Asparagus Wrap (are we noticing a theme here?) and the Soy Chicken Wrap with mixed greens, brown rice, tomato, and a zesty lemon tahini dressing.

DINNER

For starters before dinner, try the Tempe Spring Rolls that come with a nicely sweet chili sauce. The sesame and salt seasoned Edamame are also delicious and won’t fill you up. There are many entrée selections to choose from: the Buddha Bowl of grilled tofu, tempe, brown rice, and vegetables in a lemongrass sauce is delicious. The Udon Noodle Hot Pot and its miso-ginger broth is a perfect antidote for the winter sniffles. The Black Bean Cakes with oyster mushrooms, sautéed spinach, and a cilantro remoulade are quite good. I’ve heard positive reviews of the pizzas at Garden Grille but have yet to try them. But I must give a shout out to the Roasted Butternut Squash Quesadilla entrée with black beans, guacamole, jack cheese, and salsa. This dish is almost as popular among the Garden Grille groupies as the Wood Grilled Sweet Potatoes.

BRUNCH

If my readers have been paying attention over the past year, then they know that I’m not a big brunch aficionado. I prefer to stay home on Sunday with the Times and a French Press cup of coffee. I have, however, had brunch at Garden Grille twice in 2008; and I loved the Fried Egg Sandwich with soy sausage, spinach, and cheddar cheese. I’m also a sucker for Huevos Rancheros and Garden Grille’s version is muy bueno!

GARDEN GRILLE
727 East Avenue, Pawtucket RI
401.726.2826
www.gardengrillecafe.com